A Winter Hike from Klais to Mittenwald: Frozen Lakes, Alpine Views, and an Unexpected Companion

Written By RG .

TL;DR

Start: Munich
Train: Regional train to Klais
Hike route:
Klais → Hoher Kranzberg → Ferchensee → Lautersee → Mittenwald
Total hiking distance: 16 km

Highlights:

  • Snowy forest trails and alpine views

  • Hoher Kranzberg summit (≈1,391m) with views of Alps

  • Walking on the frozen Ferchensee

  • Coffee and Schnapps at Lautersee-Alm

  • Strolling through the old town of Mittenwald

End: Train from Mittenwald back to Munich
Difficulty: Moderate (some steep, snowy sections)

While living in Munich for a few days, I decided to use the city as a base to explore nearby places. One Sunday, I planned a simple day trip to Mittenwald, followed by a short hike to two alpine lakes - Ferchensee and Lautersee.

On the regional train from Munich, I met a 68-year-old German woman sitting next to me. She was curious about my travel plans and told me she was heading towards the Wank summit near Garmisch-Partenkirchen. She didn’t speak English, and my German is still quite basic, but we somehow managed to communicate using broken German, gestures, and smiles.

After talking for a while, she asked if she could join me for the hike. I agreed, partly for the company, and partly to practice my German. That conversation changed the plan. Instead of getting down at Mittenwald, we decided to start earlier at Klais and hike via Hoher Kranzberg before continuing to Ferchensee, Lautersee, and finally back to Mittenwald.

Hiking from Klais to Hoher Kranzberg

We started our hike at Klais, heading towards Hoher Kranzberg via Hotel Das Kranzbach. The distance to the peak was around 8 km. The initial trail was easy until the hotel. Since it was 21st December, snow had already accumulated along the path, but the weather was sunny — something I had checked in advance and would highly recommend for this hike.

After the hotel, we walked along the main road for about a kilometer before entering a wilder trail. Here, the snow was deeper, but the path was still manageable. As we moved further into the forest, the trail disappeared under the snow at several points. We even crossed a few swampy sections by creating our own paths.

I navigated using my phone, often walking ahead to confirm the direction. We lost and rediscovered the trail multiple times, which made the hike more adventurous and reminded me how challenging winter hiking can be.

The last few kilometers were the hardest. The forest grew denser, the trail steeper, and we climbed and descended several small hills. During this stretch, something unexpected happened: the air suddenly filled with a pleasant fragrance, almost like a room freshener. We weren’t sure what caused it, perhaps tree bark or sap, but it made that demanding section strangely enjoyable.

Throughout the hike, snow-covered Alps surrounded us, glowing under the bright winter sun.

On the Peak and the Descent

We finally reached Hoher Kranzberg, at an altitude of approximately 1,391 meters. It was windy, extremely cold, and breathtaking. Snow-covered Alps stretched in every direction. We sat near a small restaurant at the peak, had lunch, and spent some time simply enjoying the view. From here, Zugspitze was clearly visible.

Around 1:30 pm, we continued towards Ferchensee. The trail from the peak was well-marked and easier to walk. With enough daylight and energy left, we chose the longer route via Ferchensee and Lautersee instead of heading directly to Mittenwald.

Within about 30 minutes, we reached Ferchensee — completely frozen. To my surprise, people were ice skating across the lake. I had never seen this before. Nervous at first, I cautiously stepped onto the frozen surface. Once I felt confident, it turned into one of the most memorable moments of the day.

From there, we continued to Lautersee — easily the most beautiful part of the hike. Calm water, surrounding Alps, bright sunlight, and a cozy lakeside restaurant made the place feel unreal. We stopped at Lautersee-Alm for hot coffee and Schnapps, a classic Bavarian tradition. Sitting on the veranda with a warm cup in hand, a gentle forest breeze, and the Alps right in front of us felt perfect.

Back to Mittenwald and Munich

From Lautersee, it took about 25 minutes to reach Mittenwald, passing a beautiful waterfall along the way. The town itself was charming, with traditional Bavarian houses, painted murals, and the Alps rising behind them.

We took the 4:40 pm train back to Munich. Shortly after departure, fog rolled in, hiding the mountains, and by the time we reached Garmisch-Partenkirchen, it was already dark.

At the end of the journey, the lady gave me homemade cookies and said goodbye. What started as a solo plan turned into a day of shared experiences across language and age barriers. I returned to my room in Munich with tired legs and a mind full of alpine landscapes, grateful for a day that unfolded far better than planned.

RG .